In our increasingly informal world of fashion, even a normal two-piece suit is something you don’t see every day. So what man in his right mind would rock a three-piece suit, an even more formal garment that many people have only ever seen on Peaky Blinders?
Lots of really cool and fashionable people, that’s who! From Idris Elba to Ryan Reynolds, tons of male fashion icons have embraced the three-piece suit — and, fortunately, you don’t have to look like those guys to pull it off. Instead, the secret to rocking a three-piece suit is finding the time and place where it will be just right for the vibe.
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At Your Wedding
For the big day, when all eyes are on you and you want to look your best, the three-piece suit can be just the ticket. The vest punches up your look nicely and helps ensure that you’re the best dressed guy in the room — as you should be! A three-piece suit also offers some of the extra swagger of a tux, but is much more versatile and easier to reuse, especially since you can simply leave the vest at home if you want to wear it as a two-piece.
The rules of choosing a three-piece for a groom are basically the same as for any other suit. If you want a traditional vibe, stick with colors like navy or dark gray. Want to go for something a little more spirited? Three-pieces come in all kinds of colors and patterns, and the sky is practically the limit.
At a Black Tie Optional Event
A dark and formal three-piece suit is one of the only real alternatives to a tux for a black tie optional dress code — and it can look so good if you’ve got the right suit. It’s a good way to stand out just enough without pushing the limits or upstaging the wedding party.
Ground rules for pulling this off: First, you need to make sure it’s black tie optional. “Black tie” by itself means that only a tux is appropriate. Second, the suit needs to be a dark and formal color — preferably black, but charcoal or dark navy work, too. Third, stick to the most conservative styles of men’s ties and men’s dress shoes. You want dark colors and subdued patterns.
At a Formal or Semi-Formal Event
A three-piece is perfectly acceptable for most formal events — better than acceptable, in fact! Three-piece suits are a great look for any guy at a formal wedding reception, and a vest certainly won’t stop you from cutting loose on the dance floor.
Semi-formal events are generally still three-piece-friendly, although you might start to edge into overdressing if you’re wearing (for example) a charcoal three-piece with a black tie. However, semi-formal is perfect for anybody with a slightly unusual or even eccentric three-piece suit, like that crazy houndstooth suit you saw online and couldn’t resist.
At a Business Professional Office
If your office’s dress code is business professional, men are almost certainly expected to wear full suits — so why not choose something a little more distinctive than the usual two-piece? As a bonus, you can get more mileage out of the same suit by wearing it with the vest one day and without the vest the next.
This one requires a little bit of reading the room. Some companies, especially older and more hierarchical ones, frown on junior employees rocking bolder sartorial choices like a three-piece suit. If you see people at a variety of job levels wearing different suit styles, and especially if you see other people wearing suits with vests, it’s a pretty good sign that you can go ahead and bust out that three-piece (so long as it’s in an office-appropriate color and pattern).
Three Times Not to Wear a Three-Piece Suit
Remember: right time, right place. A three-piece suit isn’t appropriate for every occasion, and here are three times when it will probably give off the wrong vibe.
At a Business Casual Office
Wearing a suit to an office with a business casual dress code can already come off as trying too hard, and a three-piece will unfortunately put that dynamic in overdrive. To some, you’ll just seem strangely out-of-touch — to others, you might look like you’re trying to climb the ladder by one-upping their sartorial skills. Neither is great for your rapport with colleagues or, ultimately, for your professional ambitions. Stick to business casual staples like chinos and button-downs, with a sport coat or blazer when you want to class it up a little.
To an Interview
Once again, file under “too much sauce.” In most interviews, the formality of a three-piece suit will read either as a weird power play or like you don’t know the rules of standard business attire. Some employers may love it, but it’s often hard to gauge these things unless you already know the company culture well. You’re usually better off with a two-piece, which, while it might not be as fun, is a lot more likely to get you a call back.
To a Smart Casual or Cocktail Wedding
A three-piece will almost always look conspicuously overdressed at a more casual ceremony. You’ll probably be the only guest in a full suit, and you may well be dressed more formally than the groom and groomsmen. That’s almost never a good look and may earn you some reproachful stares from the wedding party. Fortunately, there are lots of fun ways to flex your style at these events without overdoing it. Try a sport coat with a patterned shirt and a pair of chinos for some classic swagger.
